From June 20 to June 23 for a period of four days of the 2010 Milan Spring Summer Men's Week, although under the shadow of economic downturn, but according to the Italian National Chamber of Fashion Chamber of Commerce (National Chamber of Italian Fashion) President Mario Boslli Said: "(Italian fashion industry) has undergone a U-shaped crisis, and now has shown a upward trend of reproduction." He may say is true, this Fashion Week, a total of about 40 press conferences, 93 clothing line Will be displayed in public, the number of Milan Fashion Week in January than in January rose 15%, of which Giorgio Armani and Prada are two major brands held two fashion shows. Dolce & Gabbana, who did not appear on the list of exhibitors for the previous few years, re-hosted the press conference here, even Marc Jacobs also brought their latest collection to Milan Men's Week. The same optimism also took place at the just-concluded 76th Pitti Uomo in Florence, one of the most important men's shows in the world, a year before Milan Fashion Week. The same is four days, from June 16 to 19, not so much as the striking slogan on the background of the giant Obama portrait - FUTURO MASCHILE (men's future), the Italian menswear industry as a whole is passed a Kind of hope Tancrède de Lalun, Commodity Manager for Men and Women's Apparel, Printemps, a spring department store in France, agrees and states that "the washed, comfortable and relaxed feel of the fabric crepe is a mainstream part of the Pitti Uomo show." However, Too little. " Casual Dangdang won hearts and minds Whether it is from the men's and women's week of 2010 Spring and summer look, Or Pitti Uomo men's show turnover orders, printing and many classic patterns - such as Prince of Wales and Houndstooth plaid in this season has a strong The tendency to warm back, at the same time, the bold red and dark blue use is to promote the classic gray lines pattern. The double-breasted blouse and trench coat are still the mainstay of many design brands, with most of the tailoring outfits emphasizing folds creating a casual, informal feel. Pants are designed very personal, some feet pants, some added more folds of the elements. At the same time, many grid designs and open weaves increase the breathability of the garments - and technology breathes new life into sportswear. In general, retailers have dismissed apparel that is less casual. Retailers think the designs of Giorgio Armani, Alexander McQueen, Bottega Veneta, Burberry Prorsum, Ermenegildo Zegna, Etro, Gucci, John Varvatos, Moncler and Prada all stand out in this season's Milan Men's Week. "Classicism 2010" is the theme Giorgio Armani gave them the latest season of design. Gray three-piece suit with a striped shirt, fresh neckties are to show people the conservative attitude of this season's clothing. For Armani followers, there are many more styles to choose from: two or three buttoned jackets, single or double breasted full set of classic styles, including Houndstooth plaid, Prince William grid, chicken claw patterns and Pane and other patterns. Alexander McQueen's theme for the season is "Analyze That!" From his selection of Spring 2010 models, the theme is truly challenging. It's a show full of art: ink marks everywhere on white shirts and sexy handprints printed on jackets and pants ... In a series called Evening, one Jacket knitted with silver tassel jacquard immediately became the focus of attention, which undoubtedly reflects the unique artist McQueen temperament. Since Tomas Maier became the design director of Bottega Veneta eight years ago, his attempt to prototype the American menswear has come to the fore. However, in his spring 2010 design performance has been a new transcendence: This hair stylist Guido Palau for his catwalk design hairstyle first appeared. The tie-dye, jeans and midnight blue jackets used in apparel design are typical of American casual wear. He also tried to combine formal and leisure. Christopher Bailey, designer at Burberry Prorsum, has been emphasizing the usefulness of this design for the season: every piece of clothing has its own clear theme - the yellow Parker looks like a life jacket for a yacht lifeguard; the long There are enough pockets on the jacket that people who love to hunt can rejoice. In addition, the waterproof jacket and shawl, as well as the material of the fine wrinkled nylon pants with boots, each one is impressive. With sensual music and psychedelic effects, Zegna finally cut the design of this season, the truth is almost: double-breasted linen and cotton canvas trench coat, like washing goatskin and jersey as soft as close. To emphasize men's love of stray nature, Zegna shows people the apparel that appears to be suitable for travel, and is even more durable - as demonstrated by the pillaging of Lafite and hiking boots. This season Zegna jackets have also been reduced the proportion of their wide shoulder design, tight cuffs and double row still reflects its unchanging tradition. This season's Prada shows people a black and white absolute: the designer Miuccia Prada also seems to be challenging this ever-changing cliche: the cropped suit with striped cuffs reflects its traditional style. Shirt is mast, with V-neck and flash effect. Miuccia Prada seems to have helped release men trapped in the city. As she put it: "Making them look more sexy, better, and more sensitive - sometimes men want to be a bit weak." "Some design is too shining and too much Jewelry, it really does not fit the feeling of the moment. "Richard Johnson from Harvey Nichols commented. "We came to Italy to find new, unique, and valuable men's clothing." Eric Jennings, vice president and head of men's wear at Saks Fifth Avenue, a luxury department store in the United States, said: "To keep up with the times, Look for products that meet these criteria. "The dull tailoring is outdated, and nowadays the fashion is trendy with striking styles, beautiful sportswear plus a sunshine dress up. "Before this is very conservative, all the pursuit of some precise and rigid cut.Now the design is more inclined to a relaxed and unrestrained attitude to life with a relatively hard knitted fabric made of clothing can give a The feeling of a natural waterfront, the design of the Italian apparel brand Brunello Cucinelli is the best for me today, "said Tommy Fazio, head of men's wear for Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman, high-end retail stores in the United States. Orders are the last word, show is only means Italian men's designers are in the Milan Spring Summer Men's Week to hide their cutting edge, replaced by men's more casual and more life-oriented dress - Many retailers and customers are pregnant. Compared to the previous quarter, autumn and winter men's wear in Milan has been criticized by critics and retailers, "lack of creativity, black and brown flying," we are much more tolerant of the evaluation of this quarter, Barnes New York boutiques Tom Kalenderian commented, "I think designers took this opportunity to have a lot of work, they do well, trying to stimulate the fashion industry where creativity is paramount, because no matter how high the price, you have to arouse people's desire to buy "Everyone is optimistic, we talk about the future, talk about how we can change the way we do business, and what kind of design can help change our fashion industry.Many designers work together to put their ideas in the sports series , Adding more leisure to the apparel, "said Tommy Fazio, Bergdorf Goodman's director of men's fashion. But optimism can only end up on the show - retailers say their budget can only be flattened or even cut back. Cooperation with suppliers is also gradually reduced, more attention to those who have a brand of innovative design. "The challenge of a new environment has given us a firm hold of our choice ... to modify our products to provide the most classic styles that resonate our design with the wishes of consumers." Holt Renfrew Fashion Director, Canada's Largest Luxury Store Chain Barbara Atkins said. In fact, the atmosphere is far from "happy" far away, the buyer's attendance and orders have declined. Retailers said they have cut their financial budgets by 20%, and now they pay more attention to the quality, quantity and price of their products. Lanita Layton, Holt Renfrew vice president and men's wear department store manager, is even more blunt. "There is absolutely no reason for optimism at the moment. There is no doubt that we need to be very careful in handling the funding issue. Now we have to consider the expenditures independently on a series basis "In addition to the high-end brands' debut at Milan Men's Wear Week, some brands placed a premium on stimulating their orders each year at the Pitti Uomo in Florence, taking Italy's clothing group Slowear as an example, with one of their pants series Incotex Red as Pitti Exhibition Monopoly Series, hoping to take this opportunity to increase sales. The launch of Incotex Red validated a general direction of marketing. That is, sellers believe that if frugality is the new trend, consumers should stay away from the seemingly new high-end clothing. So Slowear Group introduced this washed, dyed, patch-fitting pair of pants to bring out an older, used feel. Durable, easy-to-care design coupled with unobtrusive brand logos cleverly reflect aversion to conspicuous consumption. This quarter of the mainstream can be described as a faded luxury. Come to Italy on the stage of this men's empire show their skill manufacturers are also facing the same challenge. "Focus not only on product quality and innovation, but also on price control," said Sergio Corneliani, creative director at Corneliani, the Italian apparel maker. "This is the series I've got the toughest in nearly two decades." Take this At the Pitti Uomo Men's Wear show, most of the previous apparel manufacturers said they would save money and exit most of the show, but the men's brands including Isaia, Kiton and Hackett chose to continue to attend this Pitti MENS show, while the two backbone Brands Pal Zileri and Aquascutum did not attend. For the first time, Rooks Brothers, the American apparel brand, only took part in the second half of the show and said it was a purely marketing campaign, with a giant Obama poster on display.
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